In the Bahamas!

Well, S/V NAVIGATOR has made it to the Bahamas.  I left at 5:30 in the morning, on December 16th, from Lake Worth Inlet (West Palm Beach, FL) in 10-15 knot winds from the east.  I was fortunate to be traveling with two other boats, RIVERDANCE and RHAPSODIE BLEUE, although RHAPSODIE BLEUE had to turn back with engine problems shortly after we left the inlet (the problem was resolved and RHAPSODIE BLEUE made it into Marsh Harbor on December 25th, Christmas Day).  The passage across the Gulf Stream was slow due to very confused seas with swells running 3-4 feet and a 2-3 foot wind chop on top of the swells at times.  NAVIGATOR took all this in stride, even her captain did pretty well!  It took nearly 12 hours to make the 54 nautical mile trip, arriving at the Little Bahama Bank at 3:15 in the afternoon.  We then had a 4 hour trip across the bank, in much better conditions (1-2 foot seas and a dying wind), to Mangrove Cay, where we spent the night.

As the wind was forecast to increase significantly Saturday and Sunday, we headed to the protected harbor of Great Sale Cay for a few days.  Great Sale is an uninhabited cay, but a wonderful place to unwind and relax from the bumpy crossing, particularly as the temperatures were in the mid to upper 70s each day, even with the breeze.  We finally left for Allens-Pensacola Cay on Tuesday, December 20th under a sunny sky with temperatures in the mid to upper 70s.

After anchoring off Allens-Pensacola Cay a little after 3:15 in the afternoon, I took my first swim in the waters of the Bahamas for this trip to check that the anchor was holding and the bottom of the boat was clean of growth.  The bottom of the boat was clean, but the zinc which is supposed to be attached to the propeller shaft, and prevent electrolysis, was missing, so added another item to my to-do list (replace the zinc).  I was disappointed I could not go ashore, but one is not allowed to go ashore until the vessel has cleared customs and immigration.  So, on December 21st I docked at Green Turtle Cay and cleared customs and immigrations, I was officially in the Bahamas!  Also docked at the marina I was docked at was a powerboat STARSHINE, which I had met while at Great Sale Cay. I had dinner with its captain, Richard, that night.  The next morning I had to do the unpleasant task of laundry, but at least the laundry facilities were good.  Then headed out for Marsh Harbor, which involves going back out into the ocean to round Whale Cay, as the water is all shallow between Whale Cay and Great Abaco Island.  However, the weather was good, and the seas relatively quiet, so the 1 hour passage around Whale Cay was pleasant.  The rest of the trip to Marsh Harbor was uneventful, with a sunny sky and 10-15 knot wind (unfortunately coming from right in front of the boat so I could not sail).  I had the anchor down by 2:00 PM in Marsh Harbor.  It certainly is good to be back.  The weather is great, with temperatures in the 80s.

On Friday, December 23rd, I went into town to replenish perishable foods at a new and impressive supermarket.  Also, I looked into internet access, so I could provide updates.  Later in the afternoon, went to a wine tasting at one of the liquor stores.  There used to be a dinghy dock for tying up dinghies to for shore access.  However, the recent hurricane destroyed it, and shore access to town is not somewhat questionable.  The dock is supposed to be replaced, but is awaiting parts from the US.  In the meantime, there is a dock about 3 miles from town that I can use, or a closer when that can be used when the tide is not low (there is no water at the dock when the tide is low).  On Christmas Eve, I got internet access and did other interested things, like read a book.  Christmas Day, I went to a pot luck supper put on by one of the marinas in Marsh Harbor.  In the morning I had to make stuffing and cranberry sauce for the supper, and then headed over at 1:00 PM.  A good time was had by all.  Later in the afternoon, RHAPSODIE BLEUE arrived in the Harbor and requested help in tying up at his marina (different from the pot luck supper marina), as his marina was closed and there was no one there to assist.  So I raced over in the dinghy to help, only to find he had run aground at low tide.  The tides have been exceptionally low for the last few days due to the phase of the moon, nearly a foot less than normal low tide, and that was enough to keep him about 25 yards from his dock.  When the tide finally came in, we got him tied up and settled in.  It had been nearly 2 years since we had seen each other, except for one evening in Vero Beach on the way down the Intracoastal Waterway, so it was good to see Rejean again.  In the Bahamas, the day after Christmas is called Boxing Day, and is a national holiday, so most businesses are closed.  On NAVIGATOR it is a day for cleaning, so I will close this update to my adventure and get to it.

I hope everyone continues to have a wonderful holiday season, and don’t forget to stay in touch by e-mail.

Cliff Baker
S/V NAVIGATOR

Leaving for the Bahamas (probably)

 Well, I am going to try to cross this morning (Friday, 12/16). 

It has been blowing strongly most of the week, but last night it finally died off quite a bit.  Let’s hope the ocean waves have had enough of a chance to die down a little. 

Wish me luck.   I will tell you how it went in about a week, when I can get Internet access again.

Cliff

Stuck in West Palm

Well, I did not cross December 7 as anticipated.  The crossing would have been OK, but it was supposed to blow 25-30 knots Wednesday night, and I did not have a decent anchorage to go to before the wind picked up, so I decided to stay in West Palm Beach.  So here I sit, waiting for another opportunity to do the crossing.  It now looks like the end of next week, Thursday or Friday, before a crossing.  But, the 10 day forecast is notorious for being wrong, so who knows.  I will e-mail before I leave so you will know my status.

Have a happy holiday season.

Cliff Baker
S/V NAVIGATOR

About to Cross Over

On Thanksgiving day, I went back to Vero Beach and spent 11 days relaxing and enjoying the company of my friends John and Connie aboard RIVERDANCE.  NAVIGATOR was tied up next to them on a mooring in Vero Beach.  They had a car, so they took me shopping for fresh food, spent the better part of a day looking for a new coffee pot (after looking in nearly every department store in Florida (finally found one in Target), bought books and shorts in thrift shops, and helped them with their errands.

I did some walking to keep my heart strong, and on one trip stopped at the Vero Beach Art Museum.  They had an exhibit of Andrew Wyeth up, so that was interesting as I had spent 25 years in Maine where Wyeth had done a lot of his painting.

It took all that time for a weather window to open for a crossing to the Bahamas.  Now, it looks like tomorrow will be acceptable, so I am back in West Palm Beach anticipating a departure on December 7.  The window is not long, so it is tomorrow or I have to wait at least another 10 days for a new window (that is as far as the weatherman can see in his crystal ball (a cloudy one at that).

Waterway Wildlife

When I get to the Bahamas, I will write about the trip across the Gulf Stream.  I am just not sure when.  I will have to get an internet connection somehow.  Hopefully there will be one in Marsh Harbor, Abacos, when I get there so I can send it off.

If all goes well, I should spend tomorrow night next to an uninhabited little cay called Mangrove Cay.  The next day I will go to another cay called Allens-Pensicola Cay, followed by a short trip to Green Turtle Cay where I will check in to the Bahamas (customs and immigration), and hopefully be able to find Wifi to send the next installment in my Adventure.  Then on to Marsh Harbor for a few weeks.

I hope everyone is enjoying the holidays.

Cliff
S/V NAVIGATOR

I have made it to Florida, and visited with my good friend Rick Glasby (the kind gentleman who keeps up my blog), and he persisted in reminding me that I have been negligent in writing my updates, so here goes:

The last time I wrote, I was moving from North Carolina to South Carolina.  I have spent nights in South Carolina just off Winyah Bay, just south of Charleston, and in Beaufort.  The only stop I went ashore at was Beaufort, where I did a wine tasting and had dinner.  Then on to Georgia.  I anchored in Thunderbolt (just south of Savannah), and in the South River.  It was finally starting to warm, and Florida was just around the corner.  In fact, I made Florida the next day, after going by the Navy’s Kings Bay submarine base, which never fails to impress me.

Navigator Entering Satellite Beach

The first stop in Florida was to anchor just off the waterway about 10 miles south of Fernandina Beach.  The next stop was St. Augustine, where I picked up a mooring in the city mooring field.  There, I went ashore, did a wine tasting (it seems I do like my wine), and had dinner with friends that I crossed the Gulf Stream with 2 years ago, Dennis and Georgia.  They were traveling in their motor home and happen to be in St. Augustine at the same time.  (Dennis and Georgia, it was good seeing you again).  The next day I made it to Daytona Beach where I anchored and it was finally a warm 77 degrees.

The Neighbor's Dock in Satellite Beach

It rained on Monday, the 14th, but I still got to Melbourne, FL and spent the night at anchor in preparation for visiting my friends, Rick and Clayton, and picking up a crewmember for several days of the trip.  On Tuesday, I went up the Banana River to Satellite Beach and docked next door to Rick and Clayton’s house, as the dock was longer next store and NAVIGATOR fit better.  I had a great time with Rick and Clayton.  In addition to feeding me, they drove me all over town so I could do repairs on NAVIGATOR, the biggest problem being I needed a new engine starting battery.  On Thursday, I had a visit from a volunteer crew member to help me get to West Palm Beach.  In the afternoon, the 4 of us went swimming in the ocean.  It was cool, but not cold once you got used to it.  Then went out to dinner, and later had a swim in Rick and Clayton’s pool, which was also cool, probably cooler than the ocean.

Clayton and Cliff on the Nature Trail

Friday we went to a park to walk the trails because it was very windy for the beach.  Had lunch in Titusville along the water, then made a stop at the famous surf shop Ron Jons.

Saturday was time to get on the waterway again.  My crew and I went to Vero Beach the first day, and tied up to RIVERDANCE, owned by John and Connie, that was on a mooring.  We all had drinks and appetizers together, thanks to John and Connie.  The next day we continued on to Stuart Florida, where we anchored and took the dinghy ashore to walk around Stuart.  Had lunch, did some walking and window shopping, then had a glass of wine.  As we were heading back to NAVIGATOR it started to rain, as we were raising the dinghy on the davits, it started to pour, and boy did I get soaked.  But it was a fun day, and a little fresh water never hurt anyone, saved on the need for a shower.

Monday we continued down to West Palm Beach.  We used the dinghy to go into town and make arrangements to get my crew to the airport the next day, and had a drink at a waterfront tiki bar.  Came back to the boat for dinner.  The next day, Tuesday, my crew had some time before the flight, so we went ashore again and had lunch, walked the ocean, came back to NAVIGATOR for a quick dip in Lake Worth, and then off to the airport.  It was a fun day.

Now I am all alone again, and it feels odd somehow, but I am sure I will get used to it quickly again.  It is time to decide about crossing, and I am pretty sure I will wait for my friends John and Connie to get ready, as well as another friend Rejean, who I met in the Abacos two years ago.  He keeps his boat in Titusville over the summer and has come down to pick it up.  He should be ready to cross in about a week or so.  With any luck, we may all cross together.

I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. Stay in touch.  Some pictures are being added to the blog so don’t forget to visit.

Cliff

Enjoying Florida

Hi, Rick here.  Cliff is busy working on the boat, so I'm writing this entry.  He'll fill you in on the trip from the Carolinas down to Florida at some point, but right now he's tied up here in Satellite Beach, FL. 

He sailed up the Banana River to our canal, where we escorted him past the manatees to our home.

He tied up at the neighbors dock (since we lowered our dock down recently to accommodate kayaks).  We've made two trips to the local West Marine store (it seems Cliff always needs to fix something on Navigator).  But he's smiling again (at least as of an hour ago).

Navigator sets off south again on Saturday, heading down the Intracoastal Waterway.  The crossing from Florida to the Bahamas may come as early as Thanksgiving Day (seas permitting, of course).

Heading South - But Still Windy and Cool

Well, hurricane season is over, so I am proceeding down the Intracoastal Waterway as quickly as possible as it has been rather chilly this year.  I spent 2 days in Elizabeth City due to weather, it blew pretty hard the second day, and rather than try to cross Albermarle Sound in a blow, I elected to wait in Elizabeth City.  Went to the Museum of the Albermarle and looked at the history of the region.  But after the front went through, it got noticeably cooler.  In the morning when I was getting ready to leave, I was slipping all over the deck as it was icy!  Now, that is cold.  

That morning I traveled down the Alligator River and the Alligator-Pungo Canal and anchored that evening at the end of the canal.  The next morning there was no frost like the morning before, but it was still chilly.  I then proceeded to the Neuse River and spend two days in a marina called River Dunes.  The first day for a place to stay and to do laundry (I hear I smell better now!), and the next to wait out weather again.  Fortunately weather did get better, and I headed for an anchorage associated with Camp Lejune called Mile Hammock Bay for a night.  Although calm, it was still cool, hence my hurry to get south.  From mile Hammock Bay I went to Wrightsville Beach, NC, picked up 50 gallons of diesel fuel, and anchored not too far from the ocean.  I could hear it all night breaking on the beach.  

Waccamaw River

The next morning I raised anchor for Little River, SC.  I stayed in the Light Keepers Marina as it is close to a friends house, Lee Bragg,  and we had planned to have dinner together.  Lee and I worked together for many years in Elkton, MD.  We did have a good dinner, and for that I thank him.  Unfortunately, the weather had turned bad in the afternoon, and stayed that way all the next day, blowing 25-30 knots almost all afternoon.  Many of the swing bridges that one must negotiate on the Waterway will not open of the wind is blowing more than 25 knots, so I stayed put in Little River for another day, today.  It will be good to get underway again tomorrow, as it is still chilly.  Today, Lee and I went wine tasting in a local winery and had a good time.

Georgia Waterway

The weather looks pretty good for the next week, maybe even a little warmer, so I should be able to make good time heading south.  By the end of the week I hope to be in, or very near, Florida, and warmth.  I will let you know how I am progressing around mid week if the trip is not too eventful.  Sorry there are no new pictures, but the weather keeps me busy, and I don’t always remember to take them.  Please stay in touch so I know how everyone is doing.

Cliff Baker

S/V NAVIGATOR

Waiting for November

Fishing Boat - Reedville, VA

Cruising the Chesapeake has been fun this fall.  In addition to Galesville, MD, I have made stops in Solomons, MD, several days in Onancock, VA, Historic St. Mary’s City, MD, an overnight in Reedville, VA, at an anchorage just south of the York River in VA, and Portsmouth, VA near the Navy hospital on the Elizabeth River at Intracoastal Waterway Mile Marker 0.  I spent time with friends from the S/V RIVERDANCE in Onancock, where we toured the town, and a very nice restored home converted to a museum. 

First Maryland State House

In St. Mary’s City, the first capitol of the province of Maryland, I was fortunate to have a friend visit, and we had a great time touring the historic house, including a reconstruction of the first State House.  St. Mary’s City is also the home to St. Mary’s College.  In Reedville, VA I visited the Reedville Fisherman’s Museum.  The rest of the stops were just overnight anchoring. 

I then entered the Waterway and proceeded down the Dismal Swamp Canal, spending a night at the Dismal Swamp Visitors Center before heading to Elizabeth City, NC  To enter the Dismal Swamp one must go through a lock to go up to the level of the swamp, and upon leaving, one must lock down to get to E-City.  I will spent a couple of days in Elizabeth City to wait for November 1, so I can continue south at the end of hurricane season.

Hope all is well with everyone.  Write or call when you get a chance.  I really look forward to hearing from you.

The Adventure Continues

Well, I am happy to say once again I am on my way to a new adventure. I left the Corsica River at 0945 this morning (Monday, Oct 17) on the start of another adventure after a winter in Baltimore recovering from a heart attack I incurred about 3 days before I was to leave for the Bahamas last fall. After the doctors and I fought for several days, they won, and I agreed to stay I Baltimore so they could keep an eye on me. Boy, was it cold last winter. No way was I going to go through that again this winter. You have no idea how relieved I was when, at my September doctors appointment, they gave the go ahead to head south for the winter. So here we go!

I left the Corsica, sailed down the Chester River into Chesapeake Bay, under the Bay bridge, and into a nice snug harbor at Galesville, Maryland for my first night of peace and relaxation. It was a relatively warm day, with only light wind, so motored or motor sailed most of the way. The photo above is of Thomas Point Light. While sailing in the Chesapeake Bay waiting for my time to leave the Bay (for insurance purposes) (about October 26) I plan to visit the Solomons, Onancock, Reedville, Deltaville, and Norfolk prior to heading south.

I will try to send updates at least twice a week to keep you informed on my status and health. I also look forward to your comments on my trip and information on how things are going in your lives, so please e-mail me periodically. I will have daily access until I cross to the Bahamas, then I should be able to pick up, and send, e-mail about once a week, as I plan to be moving about the many islands of the Bahamas more than I did two years ago.

Wish me luck!

Cliff Baker
S/V NAVIGATOR