Friday, May 29, 2015

A Whale of a Tale: St. Martin's, St. Barts, St. Kitts, Nevus & Antigua



St Martin:
St. Martin
Arrived in St. Martin on March 23rd..  Entered Marigold Bay and anchored at night.. Quite a challenge! Slow Dancing arrived a bit earlier.  
We woke up the next morning and were happy to find that we were very close to shore and an easy ride to the town dinghy dock.  
Later we moved the boat to the marina for a couple of days to await a package from home. 
Were amazed that we were charged even to take a shower.  Didn’t stay there very long:)




St. Martin (the French side) was a plethora of retail stores of every kind and restaurants.  It was the perfect place for me to replace my camera and phone (lost at sea) and for Cliff to find special hardware for the boat’s windlass.
There, both the crew of Slow Dancing and Navigator connected with Susan and Tim (another Island Packet owner) and joined them for lunch.  Cliff and I decided to accompany Susan and Tim on a walk (climb) to the fort (every island has one and every one is a long, steep climb), and see a panoramic view of the harbor.
Ft Louie atop "another" hill

Dan and Melissa found a wonderful restaurant (Restaurant Le Galion) and suggested that Cliff and I stop there for lunch.  We liked it so much that we went back for cocktails and eventually dinner.  The staff were terrific and treated us like family.  
During our stay, we dinghied to the Dutch Side and explored that area a bit, found a fun place for appetizers, and several marine stores.


St Bart’s: 


Cliff and I posing at Tower overlooking Gustavia
We moved on to St. Bart’s on March 31st and anchored in a bay near Gustavia.  What a charming town!  Very European with Caribbean flavor.  Lots of shops, some tres expensive but fun to investigate. 
The four of us (Melissa, Dan, Cliff and me) rented a car to circumnavigate the island.  On one stop, we again visited a tower overlooking Gustavia and were delighted to spot a  large turtle nearby sunning himself.
It seemed like all roads in St. Bart’s led to the airport. During our circumnavigating, we managed to pass the airport several times. 

 The island is not terribly big but is quite beautiful and was a pleasure to visit.

St. Kitts:

Little Ben, Basseterre, St. Kitts

We left for St. Kitts on Easter Sunday and spent our first night in rolly anchorage in Basseterre.
  
The town was mostly set up for the cruise ships  and was not too interesting to explore.
The next day we took off for White House Bay (could not find a white house though).  There, we were pleased to note that Internet was free. 
 Seems that there was an expensive marina in the next bay over called Christoph Harbor that had just completed some docks for mega yachts (150 ft +) and was using the Internet as a free advertising tool.
Crew of Slow Dancing and Navigator decided to dinghy over there to investigate and were surprised to find that we could use their dinghy dock for free, get some ice cream at their outside vendor, get a sim card for the phone, and hail a cab driver.
We were delighted to talk to two young female employees in the marina office who filled us in on the cost of staying in the marina and also noted that there would be docks for smaller yachts from 50 ft + in the near future.  After quoting the price per foot, Cliff and I noted that his 11 foot dinghy would cost around $70.00 per night.  The marina also invited us to pick up water at little cost.  However, it was a bit humiliating to bring Navigator (a 40 foot Island Packet) to the dinghy dock to fill up her water tank:)
Melissa and Dan met Bob the cab driver, earlier when we were in Basseterre.  He agreed to come to the marina the next day and take us on a tour of the island.  We met him at the agreed up time but alas, his wife had taken ill and he asked if we would consider going on the tour another day.  We readily agreed, and as a special favor, he volunteered to take us into town for some shopping and lunch, while he checked on his wife in the hospital. 
  
The next day, we did go on the tour, saw the Sundance Development (Robert Redford’s),  the old plantation mill, the home of Thomas Jefferson’s grandfather, a "gray sand beach, and real lava rock.
Lava Rock
Robert Redford's little abode!
Dark Gray Sand???

After the tour, we stopped for lunch at a beach side restaurant and Cliff was happy to pose with a "feathered" freeloading diner!
Cliff & Freeloader!
























Nevis:

Nevis

Nevis proved to be another terrific island and after checking into customs, we set out to see Alexander Hamilton’s birthplace.  This was a charming little museum which profiled the history of Nevus and also the amazing and interesting details of the contributions of Alexander Hamilton. 

We were very surprised to learn that he had a very poor upbringing, and was extremely feisty especially in his fight to abolish slavery.  He stood up for his beliefs against strong leaders as Washington, Adams and Thomas Jefferson.   And of course eventually lost his life in a duel with Aaron Burr.
One of many fountains
After the museum, we met up with Sam, the cab driver, who took us off to a Tibetan Tropical Garden with fountains everywhere, and then
to a delightful lunch at a restored plantation resort.

Dan, Melissa & Cliff at tropical garden entrance


 


















Antigua:

Jolly Harbor, Antigua
Jolly Harbor was as nice as ever and brought back memories of the bareboat cruise that I coordinated for SOS a couple of years ago.  Horizon yachts is alive and well and a couple of the boats we chartered, Wicked Good and Ciao Italia were berthed waiting for their current crew.
Since this was antique boat racing week, I sought out Jackie Ashford of Horizon to see if we would have problems finding moorings in Falmouth Harbor later that week.  Jackie recognized me immediately (my surprise) and in her usual knowledgeable and courteous manner assured us that we should have little or no problems mooring during this event.
Slow Dancing suggested that we join them on a public bus tour to English Harbor   So, we hailed a bus and the driver happily agreed to take us there.  What we didn’t know was that his wife and son were aboard and that they thought the trip would be great and encouraged the driver to drive past his last bus route and take us there for a very nominal fee.  I was stunned to find that it took so long to get to Falmouth and English Harbor on land as when I was last here, it seemed just around the corner by sea.  We found the bus ride to be lots of fun and the scenery to be lovely.

Donkey roaming in Falmouth Harbor
After spending a couple of days in Jolly Harbor, provisioning at their terrific grocery store and enjoying at least three of the new dining facilities, we set out for Falmouth.
Since our chart suggested that it was a short trip from Jolly Harbor, we decided to motor and were beset with high winds and waves.  These conditions however, did not thwart the antique boat racers though. We were astounded to see a large number of them a bit further out racing.
It was fascinating to be out there with them until Rainbow, a replica of a long ago America’s Cup winner, suddenly popped up behind us.
'RAINBOW', The Winner!
Cliff kept reassuring me that we were in fact not in the race and that at some point Rainbow would turn off.  Finally, after what seemed a very long time, it did veer off and in fact won the race.

 A couple of days later, we were having lunch in English Harbor when crew from a 1930ish 32 ton Scottish Boat sat down next to us and entertained us with their great story about sailing on that boat in the same race.
Scottish Boat came in Last, 'The Loser"!!




The story teller's
One Scottish crew member exclaimed that they were constantly raising sails that he didn’t know existed to gain a bit more boat speed
 (.5 knots). This guy was hilarious in his story telling, complete with the Scottish brogue and left us with the idea that even though their boat lost, the story itself will last far longer than the victory of winning.

English Harbor

















So, after spending a little less than a week in Antigua, we set sail for Guadalupe.  I took the helm as we were leaving Falmouth Harbor, and suddenly, I spotted a steaming water spout. I yelled for Cliff to look starboard and together, we watched a 50+ foot whale swimming no more than 100 feet from our boat.  Wow! I was really excited…Cliff was really worried…It was ONLY 100 or so feet away from Navigator!!!

Next Time: Guadalupe, The Saints, Martinique, St. Lucia


 [K1]

Tuesday, April 14, 2015

Would you believe? We are in the Virgin Islands



Spanish Virgin Islands: 
The Island Look

Our first stop was at Green Bay, a lovely sight with a beach that boasts the island look.  Swaying palm trees, white sand, turquoise water.  However, the swells were a bit bumpy so Slow Dancing and Navigator moved on the next day to Esperanza, which was really a cute town with several good restaurants and nice boutiques for shopping.  The town was rather scenic and obviously was a great attraction to tourist from Puerto Rico.
Navigator and Slow Dancing in harbor of Esperanza

Culebra in the rain
We found ourselves a couple of days later on the island of Culebra.  The town offered a Dinghy Dock Bar and restaurant where we ran into Steve (another Island Packet Owner who was single handing), his newly acquired friend (Also a Island Packet owner), Tim and Susan (yep, an Island Packet owner), and Slow Dancing.  Island Packets did seem to dominate the anchorage. 
"Open some days...closed others"...spirit of Culebra
This was a cute town with two grocery stores, golf cart rental agencies galore, and several restaurants. 
All in all, we were very glad we took the time to explore the SVI’s as we found the area to be quite pretty, with very friendly people.

United States Virgin Islands


Crown Bay Marina
So off to the US Virgin Islands…After sailing a half of day, we entered Crown Bay Marina in Charlotte Amelie where we were astounded to see such huge passenger ships in the harbor.  The interesting thing was that one would come in and the other would leave and when you woke up in the morning, you were surprised to find two completely different ships at the dock.

We stayed in the marina for a few days and enjoyed the nice marina bar and restaurant for lunch, dinner and breakfast then decided to move on to the harbor in St. Thomas. 
St Thomas
Although I had been there the year before, it seemed nicer to me this time round and we really enjoyed the shopping, restaurants and seeing an iguana walk right past us in the parking lot of Bluebeard’s castle. 
Iguana in Bluebeard's Castle Parking Lot


We took off for Redhook shortly thereafter for a marina that had facilities to replace the windlass on Slow Dancing and enjoyed a happy hour at the famed Duffy’s Beach Bar located in a shopping center parking lot across the street.  Whoever said that Beach Bar’s should only be on beaches???

                                                                        St. Johns:

Maho Bay with BVI's in Background

Slow dancing was delayed at the marina for some time so Cliff and I decided to set sail for St. John’s
Our first stop was at Cruz Bay, where we found an anchorage at a bay nearby and were stunned to have two separate dinghy’s hail us in one afternoon.  The first couple saw that we were from Georgetown, Maryland and wanted us to know that they were from Maryland also.  The wife stated that she was actually from Ellicott City and after some discussion, I was surprised to learn that she grew up on the same road as my high school in Ilchester, Maryland.  Later, another couple came by to tell us that they keep their boat in Rockhall.  Small, small world.
Later that afternoon, we set out for Cliff’s friends highly recommended Beach Bar. We called them while we were having a drink and they were able to see us on the bar’s webcam.
The next day, Slow Dancing caught up with us and we were off to Coral Bay, which proved to be kind of disappointing.  Apparently the area had seen better days. 

Maho Bay was a wonderful anchorage and we took a very long walk up a mountain to the Cinnamon Bay area, where we found a path with Sugar Plantation ruins, and thankfully found a bar for our “thirsty” skippers.
Pelican Walking the Beach in Mayo Bay
Wild Donkey Sampling Bather's Bag of Snacks



The next day, we spent attempting to Snorkel, paddle board, and later, a taxi ride “this time” up the mountain to another Sugar Plantation Ruins. 
Cliff and I went to Trunk Bay via dinghy to observe the snorkeling trail and in the absence of a dinghy dock, decided to beach the dinghy.  Seemed like a good idea at the time until we were ready to leave and realized that the waves were so overpowering that they rolled right into the dinghy and flooded it.  Cliff was a “tad” upset and even with the help of a couple of strong men, we still couldn’t get it afloat.  Sooooooo and understand I do not write this arrogantly, I gently suggested that he pull the drain plug to empty it and together we turned it around so the bow faced out and voila!!!!, we were afloat.  

British Virgin Island's


Slow Dancing‘s windless problems sent them back to Red Hook and Cliff and I decided to head for the BVI’s alone.  Our first stop was Josh Van Dyke, where we checked into customs, went to Foxy’ for lunch, did some grocery shopping and then decided to dingy to the adjoining bay to find a Beach Bar that boasts they are the home of the very first “Painkiller”.  Don’t know for sure if that is true but they certainly were crowded with some very young, hot figured women and good looking guys who were having a fun time.  Cliff and I were a bit out of place but did take a picture or two that unfortunately got lost at sea.  (Story to follow).
Our next stop was Norman’s Bite. After picking up another mooring successfully (Yep, I am prepared to teach mooring ball pick up at the next Sailing Club Spring TrainingJ), SOS skipper John Murray hailed us in his Dinghy.  He was on vacation with power boater friends from Maryland and saw the Singles on Sailboats Burgee on Navigator.  Later that afternoon, we dinghied over toward the Willie T and decided that we would prefer to go to dinner at the beach restaurant.  On the way back in the early evening, I was exiting the dinghy to board the boat’s ladder when my purse slipped off my shoulder and promptly fell in 40 feet of water in the dark.  Gone were 2 credit cards, driver’s license, iPhone, camera, prescription glasses and sunglasses, Cliff’s prescription sunglasses and cash.  I can talk about this today because as of this writing, just about everything lost has been replaced and that’s that …
Bitter End

The next day, we set off for Limerick Bay, where Slow Dancing caught up with us and were surprised to find that if you took a mooring, the resort would give you free water up to 150 gallons, ice and showers. Nice that it was, we opted to go to Bitter End the next day took a mooring, had dinner and explored. 





Anagoda was our next stop.  
Kathy and her motor scooter
Talked Cliff, Dan and Melissa into renting motor scooters to tour the island. Dan having owned motorcycles had no problem renting a scooter for two.  Cliff was a bit hesitant about my exuberance and preferred to get a one person motorcycle especially after hearing that I hadn’t ridden one since I was about 10 years old.
Anyway, off we went and I found that scooter to be really fun and definitely better than my brother’s homemade version with a lawn mower engine.  Gosh, this rental went up to 35 miles an hour and had head lights, turn signals and a horn…What fun!
That evening, we went for a terrific lobster dinner on the beach.  What a wonderful way to end our Virgin Island tour.
Beach in Anegoda
Coming up in the next blog:  St. Martin, St. Bart’s, St. Kitt’s and Antigua