Further North and onward!!!

After leaving Mayreau, we ventured onward to arrive in St. Vincent on November 24th.  This time, we headed for Young Island and Blue Lagoon, which is the home of Barefoot Charters. We read that this anchorage was charming as well as attractive to cruisers.  Turns out that it was indeed a lovely anchorage with a resort, and restaurant(‘s).  However, to get to the Driftwood Restaurant, part of the Bareboat Charter complex, we had another very steep step climb from the dinghy dock. What else is new????

Blue Lagoon

While walking around to see the sights, we noticed bus stops on the road which prompted us to inquire about them at the restaurant. We found that there was a very inexpensive bus to Kingstown, a mecca for a decent grocery store to restock the boat, restaurants, and local stores. The bus ride offered an opportunity to see some island scenery, as well as a chance to meet the locals crowded into the bus with little room to spare.  One lady was extremely helpful in directing us to the stores for shopping and telling us about the island.

Kingstown's  older buildings from the 1700’s were unique as they were built with pillars on the outside of the pavements that supported floors above thus leaving a covered walkway protecting pedestrians from sudden rain storms.  Cliff found a terrific restaurant upstairs on one of those floors that provided a clear view of the town and sea.    

   

The town’s supermarket was surprisingly well stocked with fresh fruits and veggies and armed with our shopping bags, we again boarded a bus back to the boat where we prepared to take off for Wallilabou the next day.

Wallilabou

Since we needed to check out from St. Vincent, we set out  for a second visit to Wallilabou.  Upon entering the harbor, we looked for our old friend Alex who helped us with the mooring and took us on the walking tour last winter, but,we were told by another boat boy the he was was crewing on a sailing trip in Italy.  So, as before, we found ourselves using the same mooring with the stern tied up on the same Pirates of the Caribbean dock. 

Navigator's stern attached to dock ruins 

  We then had lunch in the same tavern like restaurant from the movie and were served by the same waitress. 

 After lunch, Cliff and I took a walk to find a restaurant called Rock Side Cafe, touted by Chris Doyle in his 2016 Windward Island Cruising Guide.  He described it as a magical tiny garden oasis overlooking the bay.  After walking for some time down a dirt road bordered by private local houses, we started to turn around to go back when we were hailed by a man named Orlando and he invited us into his yard to chat.  Turns out, that this was the restaurant that he (a local)  and his German wife Rosi own. 

Rock Side Cafe

Cliff reserved a spot for dinner later that evening.  Orlando volunteered a fisherman friend to come pick us up from Navigator in his home made wooden skiff in time for our  reservation. 

We left the restaurant and headed back up the road to our mooring.  During our walk, a local came behind us carrying a huge machete and as he passed us with a big toothy grin, wished us a pleasant day.  Only in the Caribbean can you not be in harms way greeting a strange guy with a machete!!!!

Promptly, just after sunset, the skiff powered by an oversized motor pulled next to Navigator and after some “Navigation” of my own, I descended from the side rail into the boat.  Before we knew it, the skiff was planing the waters at breakneck speed with no navigation tools, lights, or charts.  I asked (or rather yelled) to the boatman that I didn’t see how he knew his way in the dark.  He responded that he has traversed these waters for 20 years and could navigate blindfolded if needed.  He also demonstrated his ability by choosing to go between a narrow passage bordered by large rocks which left me speechless.  

Walliliboo Skiff

Finally arriving in the restaurant bay, he brought the skiff close to shore and we exited the boat in a foot of water, walked to the beach, rinsed off our feet and climbed the steps to our next enchanting dining experience. 

Once at the Cafe, we were seated at a picnic bench, served a rum punch and shortly thereafter joined by Rosi who sat down and warmly greeted us as invited guests to her party.  She shared with us the romantic story of her meeting Orlando in Germany and that after several years of marriage, she gave up her lucrative work position and moved to St. Vincent with him, opened the restaurant etc. etc.  She then directed us to another table where we were served an incredible 3 course dinner with wine.

Later after dinner, the boatman returned and again took us off on his skiff and safely delivered us to Navigator.  Cliff and I again shook our heads in wonderment of the unconventional Caribbean way.

 St. Lucia

Marigot Bay

On the 27th of November,  we took off for my favorite Marigot Bay in St. Lucia.  This bay is a completely sheltered mangrove lined cove where as told before, Dr. Doolittle was filmed.  This time, we ran into our friends Ed and Cheryl on Slow down, the Australian couple and their son and daughter on Neptune ll, and our friends Roger and Lynn on Shatze.  

The first night we got together with Ed and Cheryl for dinner at the local Indian Restaurant which came highly recommended by Lee and Sharon, our dock mates in Cruz Inn Marina, Trinidad.  The next day, Cliff hailed a cab to go get more of his favorite rum from a local distillery.  We, also, along with our other friends took advantage of the beautiful Capella marina and resort swimming pool and on the second night, went to dinner at the Rain Forest Hideaway.  This restaurant is approachable only by sea and had great food and a wonderfully romantic atmosphere. 

Rainforest Restaurant

Our next stop in St. Lucia was Rodney Bay, a great marina with a grocery store, restaurants and lots of activity.  We were surprised to find it quite crowded with boats flying ARC flags (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers).  On further inspections, I noted that Distant Shores, a 49 ft. Southerly 

Paul & Sheryl Shard aboard Distant Shores

Paul &; Sheryl Shard

sailing vessel was birthed midst the ARC boats as well.  This boat has been featured in a Travelogue series on the Discovery Channel and Wealth TV for the past few years and I dutifully watched the show long before I had any idea that I would be traveling with my own blog version.

 The show depicts a Canadian couple, Sheryl and Paul’s adventures throughout Europe and the Caribbean on their home built sailboat. After roughing it for several years on their homemade version, Paul took an interest in the Southerly (built in England) which had a swing or retractable keel that allowed for a shallow draft to enable the cruisers to enter coves and such closer to shore.  Paul and Sheryl eventually purchased the boat and taped numerous episodes on it while cruising.  I must tell you that their exploits fascinated me and when I actually saw Sheryl at the Marina Grocery store, I did what my mother told me never to do….I approached her (the star) and told her how impressed I was with her show and gushed like an unsophisticated school girl.  She responded with a big smile and told me that I made her day and she was so glad to find that she had a fan!!! Turns out that we later met them at a cruisers gathering at a brewery and once again when we were invited for cocktails on Living Life, a catamaran belonging to a Dave (from Arbutus, MD) and his wife Janice. They had interacted with Sheryl and Paul during their travels and with us on several occasions back in Granada.   

We found Rodney Bay itself to be delightful and found ourselves touring the area. 
One day, we dinghied over to Pigeon Island and climbed the hill to visit an old fort
 that overlooked a Sandals resort as well as the bay. 

Cliff climbing final steps to Fort Rodney

 

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View from Fort Rodney

We also dinghied to town and picked up a bus to Castries which charmed us with its
 pretty park and colorful buildings Castries.

Park in Castries

Shops across from Park in Castries

While shopping one afternoon, Cliff noted a Steak House that was only open for dinner and asked Cheryl and Ed (Slowdown) if they would like to join us for dinner there.  Turns out that this particular steak house proved to serve one of the best meals that we found in the Caribbean.  

Cliff, Kathy, Cheryl & Ed at Steakhouse

 To add to our festive week at the Marina, the ARC group sponsored a boaters net contest one morning on the radio.  The winner was to get a $50.00 local restaurant coupon which interested several sailing vessel occupants. The winner need only guess the amount of burgee like flags on a locals veggie and fruit boat docked at the entrance to our pier.  I found myself listening carefully to the guesses and since I had passed that particular boat several times, I knew in my heart that those guesses were totally off the mark.  So, placing all my fear of using the radio aside, I found myself, holding in the button and clearly hailing the English narrator with “Break, This is Sailing Vessel Navigator with my guess of 43 flags”. Suddenly, another boat interrupted with the same guess and to my dismay, we tied for the prize.  This meant that we needed to answer 5 more questions to break the tie.  The English narrator hailed the first boat and asked a question about British History.  He didn’t know…I did…then he asked me a question about American history…I didn’t know…the other boat did….5 questions later, I won based on my incredible knowledge but mostly because my questions were American based and Cliff helped me.  

How many flags do you see?

So, Navigator humbly accepted the coupon, and to be fair, we shared the coupon with the losers, after noting that they were berthed directly behind us.  That evening four couples enjoyed a festive and almost ‘free’ happy hour at the restaurant which provided the coupon.